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Useful Technical Information-Assistance & Reference Formulas

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How to Perform a Proper Plug Cut

Spark plugs are the “window” that you look at the engine’s operating conditions at anytime. If you know what to look at and how to interpret what you observe, “reading”the ceramic insulators of the spark plugscan tell you whether it’s lean or rich, whether its detonating or approaching pre-ignition, even its operating temperatures.

 This takes many years of experience to know what to look for and interpret what is displayed and you might need some assistance from an experienced & qualified person.

 The critical part of this procedure is to perform a proper plug “cut” and get the most accurate reading and coloration on the spark plug insulators. This will allow somebody qualified to “read” your plugs and tell you what is happening inside your engine’s combustion chambers. Remember, plug cuts are like taking a “snapshot” inside the engine and you want the most accurate picture possible.

 To read the subtle but critical information displayed on the spark plug insulators requires that the engine is operated under load for a long enough period for the cylinder temperatures to stabilize at a given throttle setting and then abruptly shut off, or “cut”. This prevents the de-acceleration and idle function of the fuel delivery system to influence the plug’s colorations.

These procedures work the same for fuel injected, carbureted, or turbocharged engines. 

OK, now it’s to time do this…if the plugs are to be read on-the-spot, then an extra set isn’t necessary to take along. If the plugs are to be preserved for somebody else to read later, then you’ll need an extra set of them along with your plug removal tools.

Find a nice straight stretch of road at least a few miles long, after all, you are going to hold the car for in 4th or 5th gear for a minimum of 30 seconds or longer.

Accelerate to speed and into the next to top gear, 4th for a 5-speed and 5th for a 6-speed. Hold a steady throttle either at half or full (wide open) and make a mental note of this since you should observe the plugs in both regimes.

After holding the appropriate throttle setting for 30-45 seconds, quickly switch the ignition off as you simultaneously push the clutch in and shift into neutral. You are trying to “cut” the engine off at that exact setting that you’ve held for 30-45 seconds without allowing it to drop to an idle.

 This takes a little practice to achieve a clean cut and you must be very careful NOT to lock the steering when the key is shut off.

 Pull to side of the road in neutral with the engine off and remove the plugs. Install new ones if they are to read later by another person.

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Engine & Performance Formulas

Engine Displacement

Cylinder Displacement:

Bore X Bore X Stroke X .0031416 ÷ 4 = displacement 

Multiply this number by the number of cylinders to see total engine size. Enter data in millimeters.

Horsepower

Brake HP= Torque X RPM ÷ 5252

Example: Torque is 300 lb-ft X RPM is 4500 = 135000  divided by 5252 equals 257 HP @ 4500 RPM

Drag Horsepower

This is the amount of power required to move a car through the air.

Drag HP = Frontal Area X Drag Coefficent X Vehicle Speed³ divided by 146000

Example: 18.5 sq ft X .40 X 170MPH³ is 4913000 ÷ 146000 = 249 HP    This doesn't take into account rolling drag from the tires but gives a close idea about the power required for different speeds. Gearing is the other variable to consider.

Vehicle Dynamics

Speed = Tire OD" X Engine RPM X .002975 divided by the Final drive ratio         Don't forget to factor 5th gear                                       against the ring & pinion ratio

Lateral Acceleration in g's = MPH² divided by acceleration of gravity (32.2 ft/sec/sec) X turn or circle radius

Example: 50 MPH X 50 MPH+ 2500 divided by 32.2 X 100 = 3200 gives .7763975 g's for this 100 ft circle

Conversions

Centigrade = 5 X (Fahrenheit temp-32) divided by 9 

One Newton-meter (Nm) = 1.356 ft-lbs

One Newton-millimeter (Nmm) = 5.75 in-lbs

Torque:  SAE lb-ft = Newton Meters

lb-ft

Nm

lb-ft

Nm

1

1.4

35

47.5

2

2.7

40

54.2

3

4.1

45

61.0

4

5.4

50

67.8

5

6.8

60

81.3

6

8.1

70

94.9

7

9.5

80

108.5

8

10.8

90

122.0

9

12.2

100

135.6

10

13.6

120

162.7

15

20.3

140

189.9

20

27.1

160

216.9

25

33.9

180

244.0

30

40.7

200

271.2

Torque: Newton Meters = SAE lb-ft

Nm

lb-ft

Nm

lb-ft

1

0.7

40

29.5

2

1.5

45

33.2

3

2.2

50

36.9

4

3.0

55

40.6

5

3.7

60

44.3

6

4.4

70

51.6

7

5.2

80

59.0

8

5.9

90

66.4

9

6.6

100

73.8

10

7.4

110

81.1

15

11.1

120

88.5

20

14.8

130

95.9

25

18.4

140

103.3

30

22.1

150

110.6

35

25.8

200

147.5

 

CO-to-Air/Fuel Ratio Conversions

CO - A/F

CO - A/F

CO - A/F

CO - A/F

.1 = 14.71

2.1 = 13.72

4.1 = 12.95

6.1 = 12.21

.2 = 14.53

2.2 = 13.68

4.2 = 12.92

6.2 = 12.17

.3 = 14.41

2.3 = 13.62

4.3 = 12.89

6.3 = 12.12

.4 = 14.33

2.4 = 13.58

4.4 = 12.85

6.4 = 12.09

.5 = 14.27

2.5 = 13.55

4.5 = 12.82

6.5 = 12.06

.6 = 14.22

2.6 = 13.53

4.6 = 12.79

6.6 = 12.01

.7 = 14.20

2.7 = 13.48

4.7 = 12.74

6.7 = 11.99

,8 = 14.16

2.8 = 13.44

4.8 = 12.69

6.8 = 11.95

.9 = 14.14

2.9 = 13.40

4.9 = 12.66

6.9 = 11.92

1.0 = 14.10

3.0 = 13.37

5.0 = 12.63

7.0 = 11.88

1.2 = 14.08

3.1 = 13.33

5.1 = 12.58

7.1 = 11.85

1.2 = 14.08

3.2 = 13.30

5.2 = 12.53

7.2 = 11.81

1.3 = 14.00

3.3 = 13.26

5.3 = 12.50

7.3 = 11.78

1.4 = 13.97

3.4 = 13.23

5.4 = 12.45

7.4 = 11.75

1.5 = 13.93

3.5 = 13.19

5.5 = 12.42

7.5 = 11.71

1.6 = 13.89

3.6 = 13.14

5.6 = 12.39

7.6 = 11.68

1.7 = 13.85

3.7 = 13.11

5.7 = 12.36

7.7 = 11.64

1.8 = 13.81

3.8 = 13.07

5.8 = 12.32

7.8 = 11.60

1.9 = 13.79

3.9 = 13.02

5.9 = 12.29

7.9 = 11.57

2.0 = 13.76

4.0 = 12.99

6.0 = 12.24

8.0 = 11.53

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Measuring Wheel Offsets

Wheel/tire-to-fender clearance issues are more commonplace now due to the popularity of stuffing very wide tires into existing bodywork. To assist in minimizing fender rubbing problems, here is a guide to finding wheel offsets to ensure that your wheel-tire combination will fit inside your bodywork without rubbing.

Backspacing is the dimension from the inner rim of the wheel to the mounting face and you will need to calculate this for proper fitment.

1) Divide your wheel's width by 2. This leaves you with the centerline of the wheel.

2) Find the backspacing by measuring the distance between the mounting face (where the wheel meets the hub) and the edge of the inner rim.

3) Suntract the backspacing distance from the centerline distance to find wheel offset.

4) Measure the distance between the mounting face on the hub to the fender. Use the measuring tape and a yardstick positioned vertically at the inner edge of the fender.

5) Measure the distance between the mounting face on the hub to the suspension. Use the measuring tape and a carpenter's square for accurate dimensions. Factor some extra space for tire clearance.

6) Measure the overall wheel width and with the above values, you can figure out what width wheel you can use and the offsets required for fender and suspension clearance. 

Please remember that you can mount several sizes of tires on a given wheel width so allow for that. Every tire manufacturer provides sectional and tread width values for every tire. 

911 Fuchs Wheel Data

Size

Offset

Backspacing

Part #

4.5x15

42mm

100mm

901.361.012.01

5.5x15

42mm

112mm

901.361.012.04

6 x 15

36mm

112mm

901.361.012.06

7 x 15

49mm

138mm

901.361.012.05(R)

7 x 15

23.3mm

112mm

911.361.020.41

8 x 15

10.6mm

112mm

911.361.020.42

9 x 15

3mm

117mm

911.361.020.03

6 x 16

36mm

112mm

911.362.113.00

7 x 16

23.3mm

112mm

911.362.115.00

7 x 16

23.3mm

138mm

951.362.115.00(944)

8 x 16

10.6mm

112mm

911.361.020.45

8 x 16

23.3mm

125mm

951.362.117.00(944)

9 x 16

15mm

130mm

911.362.118.00

OBD-II Readiness Driving Cycle

One of the most common problems with OBD-II cars ('96-0n) are smog test failures due to readiness codes not set and the ECU will test as "Not Ready".

Here are some procedures for setting all 9 readiness codes in OBD-II ECU's. These "Diagnostic Trip" steps MUST be followed to the letter otherwise you will have to start all over again. Review these carefully so you can see what you will be doing before you begin.

1) Start cold engine and idle for approximately 2 minutes, 10 seconds. This checks secondary air injection and evaporative leak detection systems.

2) Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain steady speed for 3 minutes, 15 seconds. This establishes closed loop oxy-sensor operations, response times & switching times.

3) Accelerate to 40-60 MPH and maintain steady speed for 15-20 minutes. This evaluates catalytic converters while oxy-sensor response and switching times are checked.

4) De-accelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear for 5-6 minutes. This checks evaporative leak detection system.

Remember:

The diagnostic checks above will be discontinued if:

1) Engine speeds exceed 3000 RPM

2) Large fluctuations in throttle position

3) Road speeds exceed 60 MPH

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More information to come!

 

 

 

 

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