nuts on SSI install

[nilknarf]

In light of Erok's exhaust stud issues, I thought I would toss this out there: when installing my new SSIs, I have some locking 12mm copper exhaust nuts that someone once suggested I use instead of steel nuts to minimize possible stud breakage in the future, but I still have to use the steel barrel nuts where the only access is through the holes in the heat exchanger portion- no 12mm socket will fit through those holes... is it going to be okay to use two different nut materials in this application? (torque specs I've found on the copper nuts say 11 ft-lbs, whereas Wayne's engine rebuild book says 18.4 ft-lbs for the exhaust stud barrel nuts)... I'm going to have to torque those by feel anyway because there's no straight-shot to most of the nuts to properly use a torque wrench anyway...

Cutting to the chase, I guess my question is this: should I just use steel nuts all around (coated with anti-seize) rather than use the copper nuts? In any event, common sense would tell me that these all need to be torqued as close to the same spec as possible on every nut- so either go easy on the barrel nuts or not use the softer copper nuts that were originally intended for the VW exhaust ports that exit the side of the head vs exiting the bottom as our Porsche's do... and should i use schnorr washers? or just stick with the standard flat washers?

[Steve]

I use copper-plated nuts for header systems that are removed frequently, however you can use steel ones and a liberal coating of anti-seize for the same effect.

Factory torque specs & hardware apply here.

[nilknarf]

Thanks Steve, I just went down and checked my nuts with a magnet (gee, that sounded funny, didn't it?) and it appears that I apparently do already have the right copper-coated steel nuts! Factory torque it is! I think I'm going to have to buy a cheap 6-point socket and grind it down as short as it can go and still engage the flats on the nut since there's no room for the u-joint adapter required by the lack of a straight-shot to most of the nuts... the remaining few just get tightened by feel I presume?

[Steve]

I'm glad to hear that your nuts are in good condition,...

FYI, Snap-On makes short-reach flex sockets that are just the ticket for projects like these. These are very high quality and will not round off the edges.

I tighten all of them by feel so I ensure that the flanges don't become warped.

[nilknarf]

ROTFLMAO! And this concludes our discussion on the topic of Curt's nuts! I'm not sure where to go around here for snap on tools so I'll simply go ahead and snag one from ebay. Thanks Steve!

[cary]

You can buy direct from Snap-On on their website.
I've used it a couple times. That's where I buy my triple square drivers.

[Steve]

Snap-On has a neat website where you may purchase everything, on-line.

There are also independent dealers around town with their tool trucks who visit repair shops every week and those guys are always helpful.

[cary]

Great minds think alike. And at the same moment in time. LOL

[Steve]

[nilknarf]

Dang- working until 3:30am last night got my priorities all screwed up! I hit ebay literally moments ago! The good news is that I feel okay about buying used SnapOn tools (I still have a bunch from my old stereo installer days in the late 70s/early 80s and those little buggers are tough! I've NEVER broken even one of their tools!) but in the future, I'll be going to their site- I just assumed they only sold via the trucks to pros...

Oh well, I'll be able to use the time between now and when my socket arrives to move my oil tank 1/4" forward so that the lines clear the fender support! I think I actually just might have a decent progress report to give at the BnB!