Updating the 01 Cup Air intake

[HiWind]

Hey Steve (et al) - I wanted to ask you about this late last year ... I guess you were busy cooking up this new forum - best of luck with it!

Thought this would make a good first post re the GT3 too .. so here goes ...

I tend to think, like most P modders, that if the heads in Weissach see fit to add or change the design on newer models, 9/10 times they're right.
I know of one example of a 1/10 experience .. but that's for later (altho it is mentioned below in some way - Magnus Walker T shirt from me for anyone who gets that riddle )

So I've noticed that when compared to my 2001 996 Cup, the air intake system has changed quite notably over the later 996
and then 7 GT3/Cup/R cars. Ram air scoop, intake funnels and the wing/uprights have all changed - I'm including wing as its attached to the decklid altho not ram air related.

I've done 2 things myself to tackle the update/problem ... mainly because these bits weren't easily available ex paying $$$ from PMSport.
I bought a ram air scoop as it was reasonably cheaply available from Revozport in Hong Kong, fits well per other reviews on RL ...
and basically cheaper than to make myself - Carbon Fibre and Epoxy prices are sky high thanks to oil prices.

1. the underside of the decklid - to get air from the scoop into the airfilter box
(which I used off a 996 RS to replace the stock naked GT3 Cup filter - collage/pic bottom rt). Cost about $350 after the mold worked out.
2. increased the height of the wing by laser cutting ali to match the design/ht of the GT3Cup R (and now 2010 Cup) uprights ...
ex the pressed kink that they have for tortional/lateral stability ... too hard to replicate. Costs about $300 allin.

Anything else I should consider/beware of?

Thanks!
Matt

under-decklid scoop ram air-001.jpg
cup wing uprights.jpg

[Steve]

Hi Matt,

Indeed, I have been a bit busy,....

Looks like you are on the right track for your modifications. I'd offer a few thoughts,.....

Airbox upgrade:

Such things are not easy to test & verify since these were developed both on the engine dyno as well as in the wind tunnel to maximize air pressure inside the airbox. Hopefully, you logged some WOT AFR numbers before you made the changes so you would be able to see any small changes in air/fuel mixture. This would indicate whether your changes made a positive difference or not. Chassis dynos are of little value here since the car remains static,...

Rear wing:

I would make certain your new supports offer sufficient lateral stabilty, even if you need to add doublers in places. The very last thing you need is for this to depart the car due to stress cracks. Make sure you have sufficient front splitter to maintain high-speed balance with the additional rear grip.

[HiWind]

thanks Steve - will work on those:

re the air intake ... I'm just going on it must be better based on the Weissach upgrades - note the 2010 cup is back to airbox in the cup
.. but no hard numbers unfort. As you say dyno's little help here although there is cold air separation which helps. I saw a 10hp drop immediately
we removed the back hood while dynoíng. Will use top speeds on straight to compare - not ideal I know.

My fellow racers have run similar uprights ie width/quality of ali/height wise for a number of years and had no cracks - would not be fun for sure!
When you say 'doublers', do you mean bolted pieces/strips along the upward/diagonal dimension of the upright? These are 1mm wider than
the 'kinked' CupR uprights, so that helps too.

Front splitter planning underway. Today I used less tilt with the higher wing as I'm working under the impression the cleaner air allows for
same DF at less Drag and I found the car pushed/understeered a bit less (although I did run different tire which always complicates things).
But will ensure I get some solid balance before I do anything else. Might do reasonably long undertray too.

Thanks again for the feedback and enjoy your new forum project!

[Steve]